Friday, October 12, 2007

Churches of Iva (Overview)

10/06/07

One can not understand Samoa without understanding the depth religion plays in the society and culture. Christianity pervades every aspect of life here from the schools, courts, business, law, government, etc. It is a “Way of Life”, not unlike Islam or Christianity during the middle ages. Each day I discover a new aspect of how the church influences every Samoan, whether they actually attend church or not. It is almost impossible for a Samoan to envision another person who is not a Christian, just as is it almost impossible for an American to understand a theocratic Christian country.

What a society builds often reflects what they deem important. Americans build ballparks, corporate skyscrapers, freeways, and large houses. Samoans build churches. Churches are by far the most dominate structure in any village. They continue to be built, each bigger than the last, in the continuing contest of devotion. Samoans spend over twice as much on religion as they do on education. They donate even more in the form of animals and goods for fund raisers.

There are seven churches in Iva. Mary and I have attended each one to see what role they play in the community. It is part of our job as Peace Corps to understand how to get things done in this South Pacific world.

Rather than bore you with one long blog entry on all the churches, I shall make separate entries in the coming weeks under the “First 90 Days of Iva-Churches” label.

Preparing for Group 79

10/04/07

There is an excitement among us volunteers. At 5:00 am on Tuesday, October 9th, the newest group of Peace Corps arrives. They are affectionately called Group 79 by the Peace Corps. This is a group know as “Capacity Builders”. They usually work in a school and live on or close to the school they are assigned. (Our Group 78 primary lives in a rural village and tries to help in the development of that village. We are “Village Based Development” workers.) It is a time for us to relive our own arrival with its expectations and note how we are now.

Trapping Cockroaches

10/03/07

I set my mouse trap out as usual, only to hear it snap shut a few minutes later. A cockroach meets his maker.

Tuesday, October 9, 2007

Teacher's Day in Samoa

10/05/07

This morning we awoke to excited children carrying signs. Was it a demonstration, a protest against something? No it was Samoan Teacher's Day where the children parade down the street with signs of appreciation for their teachers.

There was never a flag pole at Iva Elementary School, built over 20 years ago. Yesterday the pole was finished. Today an historic faded flag was slowly raised for the first time by the school principal, Menime Namulauulu Filipo, as the children emotionally sang the Samoan National Song. The old flag was given years ago by the previous village mayor, Tafa Sa, to the current mayor, Tofilau Kapeli, to be presented to the school when the flag pole was built. The flag waves as a tribute to both the teachers and the country of Samoa.

Children Marching Through Iva

Raising of Flag for First Time In School History

A Peace Corps Tragedy

9/30/07

I don’t think anything is more tragic for the Peace Corps institution or for we volunteers than when other volunteers are terminated early and sent home for irresponsible behavior. This year, six Samoan volunteers have been sent home early because of what the Peace Corps labels as “Frat Boy” behavior, none from our Group 78.

The tragedy is that these experienced volunteers are in the middle of their projects and at the peak of their productivity. The people in their village become irate because their projects are not finished, damaging the reputations of Peace Corps alumni, those currently here, and those yet to come.

Wednesday, October 3, 2007

A Day with Sophia (Safiya)

9/29/07

Sophia is a fellow Peace Corps Volunteer from our “Gang of Six” (Group 78). She lives in the Village of Mauga on our island of Savaii. Mauga is the smallest village of uor group with a population of about 80 people. Sophia, born in Jamacia, is from New York City. The village is very picturesque with traditional open fales situation around the rim of an extinct volcano. The mountains are is the village backdrop during the day and the Milky Way its ceiling at night.

Sophia has an enclosed room built for her as part of the Women’s Committee House. Women sleep outside her room every night to make sure she is safe. She is amazed by the unity of her village, expressed in the village’s efforts to manually resurrect an old well in the middle of the crater. (They just hit some water; the first drops being ceremonially given to the oldest person in the village).

Pre-school and homework centers are two of her projects. She has started both, as well as, three fund-raising events for supplies. She has even bigger plans for a playground, a library, and sewing machines. Sophia loves her village and from what we can see, the village loves her.
Sophia in Front of Her House

Sophia and Mary at Village Well

A Day with Jacob (Iakopo)

9/24/07

Jacob is a fellow Peace Corps Volunteer from our “Gang of Six” (Group 78). He lives in the Village of Gataivai on the south shore of Savaii. Gataivai is a large village strung out along the road much like our village. The village’s solitary Methodist church dominates the village. Pre-school, youth center, computer center, and other community buildings are located across the road from Jacob’s house and the church. Jacob has a room in a house of a large family next to the church.

Jacob’s projects are centered on the villager’s health, their community garden, and resurrecting an unused computer center. He has started an exercise and karate program for the youth, got more medical supplies for the health center, and has started computer classes for three village students. He partakes in the Village Council meeting with the Matais.

Jacob currently lives in Colorado where his father is a defensive line coach for the Denver Broncos. Jacob played football for Bucknell and has lost a lot of weight since coming to Samoa. He plans to eat his way back to his former size.

Jacob in Front of Telecenter Sign