Wednesday, February 27, 2008

Month Six Progress Report- Iva

02/23/08

School has started and the overseas relatives have left. Suddenly things are picking up in the village. People are busy making up for lost time. No midwinter blahs here.
My motto for this month is: “Learn by Doing. Teach by Example”.

Village Computer Training/Telecenter
We are still pursuing this major project by staying in touch with the Ministry of Communications as we see whether are proposal is accepted and the funds are available in June.
The principle at the local high school that originally indicated we could use his computer lab to teach people in the community has changed his mind. He does not want to open up the lab to anyone, even if he can use the extra money. Some of his school staff that was expecting us to assist is extremely disappointed. The computer lab is used to teach English. There is no one to teach computer. The facility just sits. You figure.
In the mean time, we have started computer training for an hour a day to the teachers at the local primary school. Most of the teachers have never even used a typewriter.

Sewing Machines
Construction is continuing preparing a building for instruction on the sewing machines. A schedule still needs to be prepared for classes.

Village Youth
We have been given the go ahead to submit a proposal for a basketball court to be constructed at the local park.

Home Gardens
In addition to my backyard demonstration garden, we are clearing ¼ acre for an expanded Demonstration Garden for the Ministry of Agriculture. This is consuming most of my time.
Meanwhile a group of local women plan to pay back loans by gardening. The loans are mostly to poor women who use them to pay for personal essentials, not gardening tools. I think they want me to submit a proposal for gardening tools. More on micro loans later.

New Primary School
Relatives of Iva residents living in New Zealand for a new school are collecting funds from their Samoan countrymen. They rejected the idea for Iva residents coming over to collect. It seemed they are worried about one for the pot, one for me.
After the funds are collected, we are to submit a proposal for a 1,500 meter fence around the school.

Small Business Development
Using my host family to learn how business is done in Samoa and my own money to seed start-ups, we have successful begun a popcorn business of making popcorn, which is a popular treat and selling it at the large bingo games. No one in the village is selling popcorn. Also a business making and selling T-shirts is taking off. Early sales have to Peace Corps to determine styles, patterns, and colors. We also have a store in town selling them. We are currently building inventory with a goal to sell to resorts. Nowhere on Savaii can you buy a souvenir t-shirt. Both businesses are profitable, even after paying me back the start-up costs. Now we have to make a decision as to the next step.
I plan to take what I am learning to conduct business lessons in the village. One thing is very clear; doing business in Samoa is not like in the U.S. I am learning a lot.

Breadfruit

02/22/08

My first exposure to breadfruit was watching a TV rerun of Charles Laughton in “Mutiny on the Bounty” on the ship’s ignominious South Sea voyage to get breadfruit trees to feed England’s West Indies’ slaves. Now I am the one who eats, or am fed, breadfruit almost everyday.

Breadfruit trees are very common. They are quite beautiful with large decorative leaves whose shape is found in many Samoan patterns. These leaves fall throughout the year and are picked up by children every morning as their first daily chore. The trees fruit twice a season; the second fruits somewhat smaller than the first.

Boiled or baked breadfruit is a stable for both humans and pigs. To me it tastes like a mouth full of unsalted soda crackers. Putting coconut cream on it provides a sweet lubricant.

At night the unpicked overripe fruit comes crashing through the trees, splats on the ground, and looks like white vomit. You can hear the pigs scurrying to eat this treat. No food goes to waste in Samoa.

I now wonder whether it was Captain’s Bligh’s harsh discipline of his sailors (He was acquitted of that charge), the lure of South Sea’s wahines, or the thought of breadfruit that caused some of his crew to mutiny. Somehow a movie made about eating breadfruit just doesn’t quite have the audience appeal as a lashing with the “Cat of Nine-Tails”.



Breadfruit


Breadfruit Trees in Front of our House

Computer Lessons





02/21/08

Here are two recent experiences with trying to give computer lessons:

1. While I was trying to teach how to use the computer to teachers, all but two of who had never even used a typewriter at Iva’s Primary School, I held up the mouse to explain how it is used. The teachers all started laughing. There was a real mouse running along the shelf behind me.

2. I received an email from a newly arrived Peace Corps Volunteer assigned to teach computers asking if he could borrow a computer for a while. It seems his school has no computers.
My reply, “Welcome to Samoa”

Going to the Movies

02/20/08

Someone told me it is Academy Award time, so maybe it is worth a comment about going to the movies in Samoa. Samoa has one theatre, The Majik, located in Apia. I consider the theater to be modern. It has two screens, sells popcorn and candy, is air-conditioned, and has first run movies for $2.25 US. I have only seen three movies there. The only one worth remembering is “The Transformers”. Whatever the Academy Award nominees or winners are, I doubt they have been shown for long, if at all, on Samoa’s silver screen. Even though the movies are not memorable, watching the Samoans watch them is.

American movies are filled with “in” stuff designed to generate certain responses from the audience. When your audience “doesn’t get it” or misses the point of the scene altogether, it is time to check your cell phone for missed calls. This may blind the person behind you, but since there are no explosions in the scene, it doesn’t matter anyway. The din of ringing cell phones really isn’t a problem, because it tends to drown out the constant chatter and the crying of babies. You do realize you are in a different place when Will Smith, sobbing, kisses his dying dog that has just saved his life and the audience laughs.

Wednesday, February 20, 2008

Sophia Mitchell is Missing

02/19/08

Sophia Mitchell, New York City, from our Group 78 has been sick with intestinal problems since before December. She has lost 30 pounds with intermittent trips to the local hospital. Two weeks ago she was flown to Hawaii for further tests and treatment. The Peace Corps decided her condition is chronic and did not want her to continue as a Peace Corps Volunteer. This news was not only a blow to Sophia, but also to her fellow Group 78 volunteers and to her small village.

Sophia had really clicked with her village of Mauga (mountain in Samoan). This village of less than 100 people encircles an ancient crater. The stars and mountains are its backdrop. Sophia had several projects underway. She was starting a preschool, had brought the Red Cross to train on health issues, got a grant for school books for the preschool, and had painted a map of the world on preschool wall. Her love of children and the villager’s love for her were apparent when I visited her (see my blog DATE). She was just hitting her stride when illness overtook her.

Our Group 78 considers itself special. We all have a dream of successfully complete our 27 months of together. Maybe we are an arrogant and idealistic group, but let’s face it, we are damn good! No matter what we may feel about out manifest destiny, we as mortals cannot long escape the fickle finger of fate.

Sophia, born in Jamaica, has a natural flair. Her smile, her colorful outfits, her hairstyle, her passion for Hot Tamale candies, her concerns for others; all this and more is Sophia. She shall continue somewhere to finish the work she started in Mauga on the Samoan island of Savaii. Sophia may have left Samoa, but she is still part of Group 78. Even though she is missing, she is not gone. She is our “Taupou”*.

*Title given to a village maiden for her charm, looks and manners. Among her duties is the preparation of kava during important ceremonies.

Reality Bites

02/18/08

Samoa can leave you with the feeling that all is well. In fact, the Samoan government does not even keep track of poverty. However from where we sit, Samoa looks quite different.

Today, two of the girls from our host family (4th and 7th grades) came home early from school crying. Upon asking if school let out early, we discovered the family did not have the $7.50 US to pay for both semester school fees and were sent home until they could get the money.

Women in the village are taking out loans at over a 30% interest rate to pay the fees and start up expenses of school. They hope to repay these loans by starting small businesses of which they have no experience. There is a neighbor girl of 14 who is not going to school because of fees. It goes on and on.

These people are not lazy, not irresponsible. They are poor. It is easy to criticize the ways of the poor when sitting on gilded chairs. Their hopes and dreams are the same as others. Their world is different.

Joy of Farming

02/16/08

As a person who grew up in the middle of Detroit, it is hard to imagine what it is like to be a farmer. I did watch my immigrant Russian grandfather tend his large garden, chickens, and rabbits under the shadow of Hamtramck’s Dodge factory. My parents would occasionally take the family to visit the farm of a fellow immigrant, the Gorrs. Outside of a small garden in the back of our Detroit city lot home and my attempts at a backyard garden in Minnesota, my association with the soil has been mainly cutting the grass and raking leaves. Farming seemed a step backwards in man’s quest for the stars.

Now I find myself living with farmers. Farmers who not only grow the very food they eat, but whose hopes for their family’s future depend on their farming skills. There is a joy and satisfaction to farming I never knew. Sore muscles, dirt under the fingernails, the effects of fertilizer, watching for rain, counting leaves and sprouts, clearing the land, or watching pigs eat are the ways and talk of the farmer. To eat the food you produce is a joy every home gardener experiences. This satisfaction of being engaged with the physical world of work brings clarity to life often elusive in service occupations in which most of us are thrust.