06/23/08
Mary’s infection, hospitalization, and return back to the U.S. dominate the past month along with our adjustments to being apart. The month marks the beginning of Phase II of our Peace Corps adventure.
The Garden Project
The garden continues to get bigger as I clear trash, rocks, and weeds. I find myself in a frenzy of getting and experimenting with whatever seeds I can plant. Some do well; others either don’t germinate or produce fruit. At times I wonder what I am doing is having any impact on others until I hear of someone else who is starting to grow vegetables, usually up the mountainside rather than by their house. Samoans are generally reluctant to ask me for plantings or seeds, but readily take them when offered. I have introduced okra which really grows well and when fried seems to be liked. My vegetables are sold almost before I can harvest. My real objective is to try growing vegetables which can be sold at higher prices to resorts, but which local farmers don’t have the luxury to experiment growing.
There is great interest in the arrival of my bees. Trying to get the materials to build the lean-to shelter is taking longer than I had hoped. My two hives are currently on Savaii busy producing honey awaiting their new home in the back of my garden.
Telecenter/Computer Training
A call to the Ministry of Communication is disappointing in the fact that monies for new telecenters has not been funded, but rewarding to know that Iva is still in the hunt.
My involvement with school computer training is at a standstill.
Women’ Committee:
Sewing Machines
Classes continue to be held weekly with the Women’s Committee trying to expand the number of people who attend beyond the 15-20 regulars. Many of the village women, especially young mothers, simply don’t have the money to buy fabric and zippers needed to make their own clothes and children’s school uniforms. I am submitting a glowing six-month progress report to the funding agency, New Zealand High Commission, about the success of their grant, to later be followed with a request to fund another grant for sewing supplies.
Weight Control Program
I floated the idea of a weight control program by the Women’s Committee President. We talked a long time about the habits, which lead to weight gain and about various efforts in the past to tackle this problem. As you might imagine, I have to handle this important subject very delicately.
What was interesting is that Samoans think all whites are trim. True, the ones who come to Savaii are generally of the backpacker variety; hardly a cross-section of our society or of the tourists who visit Apia on the curse ships.
Silk Screening
Another subject discussed with the Women’s Committee President was adding silk screening to the sewing/fabric lessons. She wants to proceed, but wants to wait a while so as to not do take away from sewing classes. Silk-screened fabric is to be included in the December fashion show.
Village Youth
An encore of last December’s talent show is planned. I have started to sample some youth who might be leaders for this event.
Small Business
I plan to visit the village’s small retail stores and see if there is any interest in learning about small business practices. I think I now have a better idea about their current operations. They ain’t run like Wal-Mart.
Wednesday, June 25, 2008
Reilly and Jake
06/22/08
Reilly and Jake are two U.S. college students returning from five-month study abroad programs at different New Zealand universities via Samoa whom I happen to meet on the ferry to Savaii. I invited them to spend their last South Pacific night with me before the flight back. They took a sincere interest and liking to Fa’asomoa village life. Likewise the young ladies of the village took a liking to them. It was like dropping new meat into a pack of starving dogs.
Reilly from Kennebunkport, Maine goes to Bryant College in Providence, Rhode Island. Jake from Franklin Hills, Michigan goes to the University of Michigan. What the future holds for them is unpredictable, but somehow I feel a return visit to Iva or the Peace Corps is in their thoughts.
Reilly and Jake are two U.S. college students returning from five-month study abroad programs at different New Zealand universities via Samoa whom I happen to meet on the ferry to Savaii. I invited them to spend their last South Pacific night with me before the flight back. They took a sincere interest and liking to Fa’asomoa village life. Likewise the young ladies of the village took a liking to them. It was like dropping new meat into a pack of starving dogs.
Reilly from Kennebunkport, Maine goes to Bryant College in Providence, Rhode Island. Jake from Franklin Hills, Michigan goes to the University of Michigan. What the future holds for them is unpredictable, but somehow I feel a return visit to Iva or the Peace Corps is in their thoughts.
Reilly and Jake Ready for Church
Great Chili Cook Off
06/21/08
Dillon Ryder, one of Savaii’s volunteers loves to cook, especially chop. Here he is pictured with fellow choppers as they prepared more chili than can be eaten or digested without dire consequences.
Dillon Ryder, one of Savaii’s volunteers loves to cook, especially chop. Here he is pictured with fellow choppers as they prepared more chili than can be eaten or digested without dire consequences.
Choppers: Dillon, Erin, and Tim
Cale, Erik, Dillon, Tim, Max, and Sarah
Mission: Rescue Seeds
06/20/08
Protecting an island nation with little biodiversity from invasive creatures and plants is very critical to its resources. Some species like the southern U.S. vine, kudzu, and the myna bird were purposely introduced to address one problem only to later have disastrous effects. Others organisms like the African snail have made agriculture in some of the island’s regions almost impossible.
It is with good reason that Samoa has particularly stiff requirements for the importation of seeds or animals, yet either unknowingly or naively, people desperate to get seeds to grow vegetables try to illegally import them. Some get caught. Some have to go to the Quarantine Department in Apia to plead not to burn those innocent tomato, sunflower, pumpkin, and pea seeds so needed to help Samoa’s wish to grow more vegetables. Hopefully the Quarantine Officer takes umbrage on a not to be mentioned begging Peace Corps Volunteer to free the seeds.
Protecting an island nation with little biodiversity from invasive creatures and plants is very critical to its resources. Some species like the southern U.S. vine, kudzu, and the myna bird were purposely introduced to address one problem only to later have disastrous effects. Others organisms like the African snail have made agriculture in some of the island’s regions almost impossible.
It is with good reason that Samoa has particularly stiff requirements for the importation of seeds or animals, yet either unknowingly or naively, people desperate to get seeds to grow vegetables try to illegally import them. Some get caught. Some have to go to the Quarantine Department in Apia to plead not to burn those innocent tomato, sunflower, pumpkin, and pea seeds so needed to help Samoa’s wish to grow more vegetables. Hopefully the Quarantine Officer takes umbrage on a not to be mentioned begging Peace Corps Volunteer to free the seeds.
John Brown’s Body
06/20/08
Not the John Brown of song, but THE John Brown, the mystery Scotsman of Queen Victoria and of the movie “Mrs. Brown” with Judy Dench-Billy Connolly. How did Samoa become his “Final Resting Place” at this well-maintained, practically unknown, gated site in Apia?
Wikipedia and many Brits have John Brown buried in Scotland. His secret marriage and love affair with Queen Victoria denied by “respectable” historians, although royalty secretly marrying their commoner servants, and having their children, is not unknown. What is known is that Victoria’s son, King Edward, had the statues and memorials to John Brown destroyed.
This convoluted tale is of the most powerful family of the time trying to alter, reframe, and destroy the actual history of John Brown makes pursuing the story even more intriguing. So I called the phone number on the sign. Answering was John Brown’s Great-Great-Great Grandson whose family owns the Hidden Garden Resort in Apia. The story gets even better as the family tries to weave what they know about their ancestor to restore his place as a human being. It just may be that I should spend some time at the Hidden Garden.
Not the John Brown of song, but THE John Brown, the mystery Scotsman of Queen Victoria and of the movie “Mrs. Brown” with Judy Dench-Billy Connolly. How did Samoa become his “Final Resting Place” at this well-maintained, practically unknown, gated site in Apia?Wikipedia and many Brits have John Brown buried in Scotland. His secret marriage and love affair with Queen Victoria denied by “respectable” historians, although royalty secretly marrying their commoner servants, and having their children, is not unknown. What is known is that Victoria’s son, King Edward, had the statues and memorials to John Brown destroyed.
This convoluted tale is of the most powerful family of the time trying to alter, reframe, and destroy the actual history of John Brown makes pursuing the story even more intriguing. So I called the phone number on the sign. Answering was John Brown’s Great-Great-Great Grandson whose family owns the Hidden Garden Resort in Apia. The story gets even better as the family tries to weave what they know about their ancestor to restore his place as a human being. It just may be that I should spend some time at the Hidden Garden.
Arrival of the Pacific Dawn
06/20/08
This is how many visit Samoa. They put on their white athletic shoes, grab their walkers, come ashore in Apia and think they have visited Samoa.
This is how many visit Samoa. They put on their white athletic shoes, grab their walkers, come ashore in Apia and think they have visited Samoa.
Thursday, June 19, 2008
Mary’s Birthday
06/19/08
Some things you just do not do. One is forget your wife’s birthday. I did.
You say how can you not know what day it is when you write in your journal with a calendar facing you on the wall? Afterall you can lose connection between the date and what that date represents. Time has become a blur for me. If the church bells didn’t ring all day Sunday and I didn’t go to church, I wouldn’t know a new week started.
Maybe it is Mary’s fault. On the calendar is written all the birthdays of members of our host Samoan family, various relatives, and friends, but none of our children or her own. (How’s that was stooping low?)
If forgetfulness is a sin, then a sin can be forgiven. Mary has forgiven me many times before. I ask for one more absolution.
Happy Belated Birthday, Mary. I love you.
P.S. My birthday is November 28th.
Some things you just do not do. One is forget your wife’s birthday. I did.
You say how can you not know what day it is when you write in your journal with a calendar facing you on the wall? Afterall you can lose connection between the date and what that date represents. Time has become a blur for me. If the church bells didn’t ring all day Sunday and I didn’t go to church, I wouldn’t know a new week started.
Maybe it is Mary’s fault. On the calendar is written all the birthdays of members of our host Samoan family, various relatives, and friends, but none of our children or her own. (How’s that was stooping low?)
If forgetfulness is a sin, then a sin can be forgiven. Mary has forgiven me many times before. I ask for one more absolution.
Happy Belated Birthday, Mary. I love you.
P.S. My birthday is November 28th.
Monday, June 16, 2008
Shit in a Bucket
06/16/08
It Doesn't Get Better Than This.
There is a great shit in a bucket movie with Gene Wilder called, “Quackser Fortune has a Cousin in the Bronx” (1970). My hands may not be as soft as Gene’s. What I caress may not now be what Gene caresses, but I do have shit in a bucket.
Boyz Night Out
06/14/08
With Mary gone, I have joined the Boyz of Savaii for camaraderie. The meeting place is a centrally located watering hole in the village of Salelologa, called Lucia’s. Here you can get an inexpensive, yet good meal, watch “Victory at Sea” reruns, and of course, get libations. We gather about noon, finish by 5:00 pm in order to catch the last buses back to our respective villages.
With Mary gone, I have joined the Boyz of Savaii for camaraderie. The meeting place is a centrally located watering hole in the village of Salelologa, called Lucia’s. Here you can get an inexpensive, yet good meal, watch “Victory at Sea” reruns, and of course, get libations. We gather about noon, finish by 5:00 pm in order to catch the last buses back to our respective villages.
Reinventing Yourself
06/13/08
Whatever the Peace Corps advertises and its intentions for a well organized, planned, and fulfilling experience in some exotic locale, the fact is what is written and what is actual don’t mesh. In reality you find yourself placed in a world where you are the oddity whose purpose is more a status symbol than an instrument of change. Your American hurry up world of objectives, deadlines, and measured progress are viewed in your new world as insensitive and useless. Yet there is a job to be done. There is the need to alter your official Peace Corps role so that you can become an integral part of your new social environment. It is you who must change. You need to reinvent yourself.
Maybe the word “reinventing” is wrong. It implies an attitude of knowingly being able to choose what you are, to be in control. Maybe “adapting” is a better choice. Adaptation is that mystical cosmic force needed to survive. This is the scary part of the Peace Corps adventure to find you are changing as if on this raft, shooting the rapids on the “River of No Return”, or worse yet, “Into the Heart of Darkness”.
Changes in me have not been planned or conscious. I don’t know how but somewhere along the way I find myself critical of the world I left and more accepting of the world I am now placed. I have become snooty about living in a rural village. Haughty if you will of even those Peace Corps living in Apia where the conversation seemingly is centered around cheeses, hot showers, movies, and restaurants. I am now a Savaii Village Based Development snob
Whatever the Peace Corps advertises and its intentions for a well organized, planned, and fulfilling experience in some exotic locale, the fact is what is written and what is actual don’t mesh. In reality you find yourself placed in a world where you are the oddity whose purpose is more a status symbol than an instrument of change. Your American hurry up world of objectives, deadlines, and measured progress are viewed in your new world as insensitive and useless. Yet there is a job to be done. There is the need to alter your official Peace Corps role so that you can become an integral part of your new social environment. It is you who must change. You need to reinvent yourself.
Maybe the word “reinventing” is wrong. It implies an attitude of knowingly being able to choose what you are, to be in control. Maybe “adapting” is a better choice. Adaptation is that mystical cosmic force needed to survive. This is the scary part of the Peace Corps adventure to find you are changing as if on this raft, shooting the rapids on the “River of No Return”, or worse yet, “Into the Heart of Darkness”.
Changes in me have not been planned or conscious. I don’t know how but somewhere along the way I find myself critical of the world I left and more accepting of the world I am now placed. I have become snooty about living in a rural village. Haughty if you will of even those Peace Corps living in Apia where the conversation seemingly is centered around cheeses, hot showers, movies, and restaurants. I am now a Savaii Village Based Development snob
You Always Have God
06/13/08
Many in the Peace Corps have trouble reconciling the role of the church in Samoa. One cannot help but notice the finest buildings are churches; the biggest homes belong to clergy each sitting along side of ramshackle stores and homes. It just didn’t make sense why people with so little give so much to support their church even at the sacrifice of their own and children’s well-being.
In many ways Samoa is like my current old boyhood neighborhood in Detroit. Here churches now occupy what was once thriving stores amongst burnt out buildings and homes. If there is a connection, I think it is demonstrating a communal glorification of God, which people receive and which becomes a testament that you mattered during your lifetime.
Yes there are charlatans who prey on others. There are religious power seekers who abuse their authority. There is the use of scriptures by corrupt politicians. There is religious zeal that stifles knowledge and enlightenment. Then I watch as people leave the church in a pouring predawn rain with a look of contentment on their wet faces and realize they have something I don’t have. They always have God.
Many in the Peace Corps have trouble reconciling the role of the church in Samoa. One cannot help but notice the finest buildings are churches; the biggest homes belong to clergy each sitting along side of ramshackle stores and homes. It just didn’t make sense why people with so little give so much to support their church even at the sacrifice of their own and children’s well-being.
In many ways Samoa is like my current old boyhood neighborhood in Detroit. Here churches now occupy what was once thriving stores amongst burnt out buildings and homes. If there is a connection, I think it is demonstrating a communal glorification of God, which people receive and which becomes a testament that you mattered during your lifetime.
Yes there are charlatans who prey on others. There are religious power seekers who abuse their authority. There is the use of scriptures by corrupt politicians. There is religious zeal that stifles knowledge and enlightenment. Then I watch as people leave the church in a pouring predawn rain with a look of contentment on their wet faces and realize they have something I don’t have. They always have God.
Dr. Niko/Nick
06/12/08
A little bit of first aid knowledge combined with first aid supplies from home and the Peace Corps has really come in handy in helping villagers with their numerous maladies. It seems wearing a bandage or getting a pill from Dr. Niko is becoming more popular. Here is a sampling of cases:
Lacerations:
These are the most common cases, usually from machetes while working on the plantations or cuts to the bottom of bare feet from coral, nails, glass, bottle caps, or nails. To stop bleeding Samoans use a plant they call a Chinese Fruit from which they make a black, mud-like paste. This stuff really works! A torn piece of cloth serves as their bandage. Most of the time I see the wound the next day. Betadine antiseptic, Neosporin, and numerous sized gauze bandages, bandaids, and tape serve to keep out infections until scar material fills in the wound. Patients are very good about coming back to be redressed with a new badge of courage.
Aches:
Headaches, toothaches, joint aches are treated with Ibuprofen, the miracle drug which seems to maybe not cure, but relieve the pain.
Digestive:
A Pepto-Bismo tablet looks pretty, doesn’t taste bad, and may even help.
Skin Infections:
Rashes, boils, ringworm, scabies, and innumerable bacterial infections are considered normal. Almost everyone has them. No one has come for treatment.
Burns:
Haven’t seen any. Thank goodness. Although with all the cooking done on open fires, and roasting cocoa on hot metal sheets, one would expect to see them, but they are probably just accepted as normal, except for the very serious.
Stress:
America’s most common medical problem is non-existent in Samoa.
A little bit of first aid knowledge combined with first aid supplies from home and the Peace Corps has really come in handy in helping villagers with their numerous maladies. It seems wearing a bandage or getting a pill from Dr. Niko is becoming more popular. Here is a sampling of cases:
Lacerations:
These are the most common cases, usually from machetes while working on the plantations or cuts to the bottom of bare feet from coral, nails, glass, bottle caps, or nails. To stop bleeding Samoans use a plant they call a Chinese Fruit from which they make a black, mud-like paste. This stuff really works! A torn piece of cloth serves as their bandage. Most of the time I see the wound the next day. Betadine antiseptic, Neosporin, and numerous sized gauze bandages, bandaids, and tape serve to keep out infections until scar material fills in the wound. Patients are very good about coming back to be redressed with a new badge of courage.
Aches:
Headaches, toothaches, joint aches are treated with Ibuprofen, the miracle drug which seems to maybe not cure, but relieve the pain.
Digestive:
A Pepto-Bismo tablet looks pretty, doesn’t taste bad, and may even help.
Skin Infections:
Rashes, boils, ringworm, scabies, and innumerable bacterial infections are considered normal. Almost everyone has them. No one has come for treatment.
Burns:
Haven’t seen any. Thank goodness. Although with all the cooking done on open fires, and roasting cocoa on hot metal sheets, one would expect to see them, but they are probably just accepted as normal, except for the very serious.
Stress:
America’s most common medical problem is non-existent in Samoa.
A Patient
Machete Slash to Foot
The Long Haul
06/10/08
It is over a week now since Mary returned to Minneapolis. The shock, questions, and tears about her unexpected and sudden departure are subsiding. Life around me is developing a new ebb and flow of activity as children return to school after their semester recess and others carry on their household duties. People understand Mary is gone and so do I.
Before me is another 15 months, certainly a different 15 months alone than with Mary. They are 15 months as a single Peace Corps Volunteer. I now face what most volunteers face and that is the realization of the long haul road ahead, on your own, with only time as your constant companion.
It is over a week now since Mary returned to Minneapolis. The shock, questions, and tears about her unexpected and sudden departure are subsiding. Life around me is developing a new ebb and flow of activity as children return to school after their semester recess and others carry on their household duties. People understand Mary is gone and so do I.
Before me is another 15 months, certainly a different 15 months alone than with Mary. They are 15 months as a single Peace Corps Volunteer. I now face what most volunteers face and that is the realization of the long haul road ahead, on your own, with only time as your constant companion.
Why Samoans Miss Mary
06/07/08
The longing for Mary by Samoans is genuine and evident. What villagers miss in Mary is the egalitarian relationship with them. They recognize her being a part of their life and her concern for their concerns. She is a part of them, a trait they didn’t find with other palanges, whites. Isn’t this what Peace Corps is about?
The longing for Mary by Samoans is genuine and evident. What villagers miss in Mary is the egalitarian relationship with them. They recognize her being a part of their life and her concern for their concerns. She is a part of them, a trait they didn’t find with other palanges, whites. Isn’t this what Peace Corps is about?
Welcome Group 80
06/06/08
Exactly one year after our Group 78 of Village Based Development (VBD) volunteers arrived in Samoa, Group 80 became the next wave of Peace Corps VBD hopefuls. It is a Peace Corps custom for the existing volunteers to welcome and entertain the new group with what is called a Fia Fia, Samoan party. What once seemed like a bedlam of oiled male volunteer bodies adorned with leafs, the graceful movements of the female volunteer dances, and strange sounds to us, must be just as confusing to the newcomers.
To look into what seems like the very young and naïve eyes of Group 80, one can’t help but think of the road our Group 78 has traveled and to know the unjustified confidence of those just starting the journey is momentary. But until then, let’s dance, drink beer, and enjoy togetherness. Tomorrow comes soon enough.
Exactly one year after our Group 78 of Village Based Development (VBD) volunteers arrived in Samoa, Group 80 became the next wave of Peace Corps VBD hopefuls. It is a Peace Corps custom for the existing volunteers to welcome and entertain the new group with what is called a Fia Fia, Samoan party. What once seemed like a bedlam of oiled male volunteer bodies adorned with leafs, the graceful movements of the female volunteer dances, and strange sounds to us, must be just as confusing to the newcomers.
To look into what seems like the very young and naïve eyes of Group 80, one can’t help but think of the road our Group 78 has traveled and to know the unjustified confidence of those just starting the journey is momentary. But until then, let’s dance, drink beer, and enjoy togetherness. Tomorrow comes soon enough.
Wednesday, June 11, 2008
The Long Haul
06/10/08
It is over a week now since Mary returned to Minneapolis. The shock, questions, and tears about her unexpected and sudden departure are subsiding. Life around me is developing a new ebb and flow of activity as children return to school after their semester recess and others carry on their household duties. People understand Mary is gone and so do I.
Before me is another 15 months, certainly a different 15 months alone than with Mary. They are 15 months as a single Peace Corps Volunteer. I now face what most volunteers face and that is the realization of the long haul road ahead, on your own, with only time as your constant companion.
It is over a week now since Mary returned to Minneapolis. The shock, questions, and tears about her unexpected and sudden departure are subsiding. Life around me is developing a new ebb and flow of activity as children return to school after their semester recess and others carry on their household duties. People understand Mary is gone and so do I.
Before me is another 15 months, certainly a different 15 months alone than with Mary. They are 15 months as a single Peace Corps Volunteer. I now face what most volunteers face and that is the realization of the long haul road ahead, on your own, with only time as your constant companion.
Why Samoans Miss Mary
06/07/08
The longing for Mary by Samoans is genuine and evident. What villagers miss in Mary is the egalitarian relationship with them. They recognize her being a part of their life and her concern for their concerns. She is a part of them, a trait they didn’t find with other palanges, whites. Isn’t this what Peace Corps is about?
The longing for Mary by Samoans is genuine and evident. What villagers miss in Mary is the egalitarian relationship with them. They recognize her being a part of their life and her concern for their concerns. She is a part of them, a trait they didn’t find with other palanges, whites. Isn’t this what Peace Corps is about?
Welcome Group 80
06/06/08
Exactly one year after our Group 78 of Village Based Development (VBD) volunteers arrived in Samoa, Group 80 became the next wave of Peace Corps VBD hopefuls. It is a Peace Corps custom for the existing volunteers to welcome and entertain the new group with what is called a Fia Fia, Samoan party. What once seemed like a bedlam of oiled male volunteer bodies adorned with leafs, the graceful movements of the female volunteer dances, and strange sounds to us, must be just as confusing to the newcomers.
To look into what seems like the very young and naïve eyes of Group 80, one can’t help but think of the road our Group 78 has traveled and to know the unjustified confidence of those just starting the journey is momentary. But until then, let’s dance, drink beer, and enjoy togetherness. Tomorrow comes soon enough.
Exactly one year after our Group 78 of Village Based Development (VBD) volunteers arrived in Samoa, Group 80 became the next wave of Peace Corps VBD hopefuls. It is a Peace Corps custom for the existing volunteers to welcome and entertain the new group with what is called a Fia Fia, Samoan party. What once seemed like a bedlam of oiled male volunteer bodies adorned with leafs, the graceful movements of the female volunteer dances, and strange sounds to us, must be just as confusing to the newcomers.
To look into what seems like the very young and naïve eyes of Group 80, one can’t help but think of the road our Group 78 has traveled and to know the unjustified confidence of those just starting the journey is momentary. But until then, let’s dance, drink beer, and enjoy togetherness. Tomorrow comes soon enough.
Friday, June 6, 2008
Bees
06/04/08
At a whim a few months ago, I spoke with a cantankerous old beekeeper who is half Samoan but grew up in New Zealand, about my desire to take up his passion of apiary. Well today he showed up ready to deliver some buzzing beehives. Hold on a minute, Lester! Before we plop these swarming masses in the back of my garden, I had better: 1) get agreement from my host family, and 2) at least see what beekeeping is about before assuming ownership of two queens and her legends of workers. “No problem”, says Lester, as I get into his vintage pickup, don a beekeeper’s outfit, and head for his hives.
I learned a lot about bees as I stood, smoker in hand, as hundreds, least I say thousands/millions, of workers protested the taking of their labors. The first lesson learned was that it would take more than 10 minutes a month to tend to the hives as Lester said. The second lesson was that according to Lester, beekeepers are known for their longevity since honey, especially Royal Jelly, increases just about everything. The third lesson was that the venom from the bee sting is what Viagra synthetically reproduces. The fourth lesson was, “Why not?” what else am I going to do for the next 15 months.
Lester is to return next month with the hives. In the meantime I need to convince my host family and village folks that bees are harmless and beneficial, and the matai of the Village Council that bee stings make you more potent than your wife ever feared. Lester left me with a bottle of his Samoan honey and a cloud of pickup fumes.
At a whim a few months ago, I spoke with a cantankerous old beekeeper who is half Samoan but grew up in New Zealand, about my desire to take up his passion of apiary. Well today he showed up ready to deliver some buzzing beehives. Hold on a minute, Lester! Before we plop these swarming masses in the back of my garden, I had better: 1) get agreement from my host family, and 2) at least see what beekeeping is about before assuming ownership of two queens and her legends of workers. “No problem”, says Lester, as I get into his vintage pickup, don a beekeeper’s outfit, and head for his hives.
I learned a lot about bees as I stood, smoker in hand, as hundreds, least I say thousands/millions, of workers protested the taking of their labors. The first lesson learned was that it would take more than 10 minutes a month to tend to the hives as Lester said. The second lesson was that according to Lester, beekeepers are known for their longevity since honey, especially Royal Jelly, increases just about everything. The third lesson was that the venom from the bee sting is what Viagra synthetically reproduces. The fourth lesson was, “Why not?” what else am I going to do for the next 15 months.
Lester is to return next month with the hives. In the meantime I need to convince my host family and village folks that bees are harmless and beneficial, and the matai of the Village Council that bee stings make you more potent than your wife ever feared. Lester left me with a bottle of his Samoan honey and a cloud of pickup fumes.
Into the Future
06/03/08
Before Mary returned to the U.S. we discussed our future life apart. There are the miles, the time, and the experiences to negotiate. We could visualize each other’s life over the next 15 months. Mary would reconnect with our children, her family and friends much the same as before Peace Corps. Her life would revolve around the relationships with people. My life would continue to revolve around my Peace Corps projects and village events, a routine Mary knows well. Of course, there are always unforeseen happenings, but the immediate future doesn’t worry us. It is after Peace Corps that life becomes unpredictable.
I call returning from the Peace Corps, “Coming in from the Cold”, after John LeCarre’s novel. Something happens to a person who has been away a long time in a distant world. What was once the familiar is now unfamiliar. Does one return to the familiar, “the Cold”? Stay tuned folks, be patient, for the future does eventually revile itself. What can be predicted is whatever the future holds; it won’t be the way we imagined.
Before Mary returned to the U.S. we discussed our future life apart. There are the miles, the time, and the experiences to negotiate. We could visualize each other’s life over the next 15 months. Mary would reconnect with our children, her family and friends much the same as before Peace Corps. Her life would revolve around the relationships with people. My life would continue to revolve around my Peace Corps projects and village events, a routine Mary knows well. Of course, there are always unforeseen happenings, but the immediate future doesn’t worry us. It is after Peace Corps that life becomes unpredictable.
I call returning from the Peace Corps, “Coming in from the Cold”, after John LeCarre’s novel. Something happens to a person who has been away a long time in a distant world. What was once the familiar is now unfamiliar. Does one return to the familiar, “the Cold”? Stay tuned folks, be patient, for the future does eventually revile itself. What can be predicted is whatever the future holds; it won’t be the way we imagined.
Baby Nicholas
06/02/08
Nicholas with Nicholas
It’s weird to have a child named after you. You look into the child’s eyes and wonder if the name brings a greater connection between the shared namesakes. With your own child the connection is apparent and so to the child’s desire to meet the perceived expectations of his father. This is the way it is with me and with my son who carry the name of their fathers, except for Roman numerals at the end. What of a child who carries your name, but is not related?
It is not unusual for Samoans to name children after palanges, westerners. They are extremely proud of children with these names. So the newest baby in our host family circle is named after me, Nicholas, not the Samoan version of Niko, but Nicholas. What is to be our relationship? Have I unknowingly become the Samoan equivalent of a Godfather? Is the child’s future as clouded and convoluted as his older brother, Lawrence, named after his prospective adoptive American father? Maybe it is just a name that suddenly came to mind, a fad of Nicholas’, a way to avoid a family debate, or maybe more.
Nicholas with NicholasIt’s weird to have a child named after you. You look into the child’s eyes and wonder if the name brings a greater connection between the shared namesakes. With your own child the connection is apparent and so to the child’s desire to meet the perceived expectations of his father. This is the way it is with me and with my son who carry the name of their fathers, except for Roman numerals at the end. What of a child who carries your name, but is not related?
It is not unusual for Samoans to name children after palanges, westerners. They are extremely proud of children with these names. So the newest baby in our host family circle is named after me, Nicholas, not the Samoan version of Niko, but Nicholas. What is to be our relationship? Have I unknowingly become the Samoan equivalent of a Godfather? Is the child’s future as clouded and convoluted as his older brother, Lawrence, named after his prospective adoptive American father? Maybe it is just a name that suddenly came to mind, a fad of Nicholas’, a way to avoid a family debate, or maybe more.
Tuesday, June 3, 2008
Women’s Committee Goodbye
06/01/08
The Executive Council of Iva’s Woman’s Committee held a farewell evening tea to thank Mary for the sacrifices she made coming to Samoa, the hard work she has done for the women, and especially the relations she built with the village. They also gave her a beautiful carved ava bowl, Tanoa, as a parting gift.
Sometimes one underestimates the impact you have on others, such is the case with Mary. Some wore dresses made on the sewing machines that Mary was able to get for the village. One could see from the tears in their eyes, Mary is going to be missed.
The Executive Council of Iva’s Woman’s Committee held a farewell evening tea to thank Mary for the sacrifices she made coming to Samoa, the hard work she has done for the women, and especially the relations she built with the village. They also gave her a beautiful carved ava bowl, Tanoa, as a parting gift.
Sometimes one underestimates the impact you have on others, such is the case with Mary. Some wore dresses made on the sewing machines that Mary was able to get for the village. One could see from the tears in their eyes, Mary is going to be missed.
Ava Bowl Gift
Women's Committee Executive Council
Mary’s Tree (Niu o Malia)
06/01/08
Early upon our arrival in the village, our host family said it would plant two coconut trees by which to remember us. Well in true Samoan fashion, late last night a small coconut tree arrived for Mary to plant in the corner of the small garden behind our house.
Early upon our arrival in the village, our host family said it would plant two coconut trees by which to remember us. Well in true Samoan fashion, late last night a small coconut tree arrived for Mary to plant in the corner of the small garden behind our house.
Steam Shovel Mary Planting Coconut Tree
With Host Father
Mary’s Last To’ona’i
06/01/08
To’ona’i is the large traditional meal served after church on Sunday. It is cooked on the Samoan umu or outdoor oven. This one is special for it is our host’s family last with Mary. The meal is modest by most Samoan standards with apologies for not having enough money to buy even more food. But it is even better because all the ingredients, including the pig, are grown and produced on the family’s land.
To’ona’i is the large traditional meal served after church on Sunday. It is cooked on the Samoan umu or outdoor oven. This one is special for it is our host’s family last with Mary. The meal is modest by most Samoan standards with apologies for not having enough money to buy even more food. But it is even better because all the ingredients, including the pig, are grown and produced on the family’s land.
Back from Church
Last Family Meal
Gods are Crying
05/31/08
Ever since Mary announced to the village that she is leaving four days ago, the skies have been overcast with almost unceasing rain. It is the dry season.
Ever since Mary announced to the village that she is leaving four days ago, the skies have been overcast with almost unceasing rain. It is the dry season.
Disengaging
05/30/08
We have all experienced leaving someone or someplace behind well hold dear. It is part of life. Maybe it is the idea of déjà vu, which softens the pangs of separation. For Samoans leaving is part of their life, but it always with the thought eventually of returning. It is almost unthinkable for Samoans to imagine that a person is leaving never again to return to Samoa. It is the center of the world.
The other part of leaving is disengaging from the Peace Corps. Here you have bureaucracy in action. It is not that the Peace Corps is heartless, but with forms to complete, interviews which have to be conducted, travel arrangements, and items to be returned, the saying “Good Bye” tends to be institutionalized. You leave on the midnight plane without fanfare and without the expectation of you ever returning.
Of course, disengaging from here has a little part of both Fa’asamoa and Peace Corps. We desire to have people want and expect us to return on the one hand; on the other hand, bureaucratic procedures make it easier to say, “Tofa Soifua”.
We have all experienced leaving someone or someplace behind well hold dear. It is part of life. Maybe it is the idea of déjà vu, which softens the pangs of separation. For Samoans leaving is part of their life, but it always with the thought eventually of returning. It is almost unthinkable for Samoans to imagine that a person is leaving never again to return to Samoa. It is the center of the world.
The other part of leaving is disengaging from the Peace Corps. Here you have bureaucracy in action. It is not that the Peace Corps is heartless, but with forms to complete, interviews which have to be conducted, travel arrangements, and items to be returned, the saying “Good Bye” tends to be institutionalized. You leave on the midnight plane without fanfare and without the expectation of you ever returning.
Of course, disengaging from here has a little part of both Fa’asamoa and Peace Corps. We desire to have people want and expect us to return on the one hand; on the other hand, bureaucratic procedures make it easier to say, “Tofa Soifua”.
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