10/29/07
Matai is the title given to the selected head of a family. This title enables the matai to represent the family at the village council and is required to be selected to parliament. The matai is responsible for the well being of the family and is the final decision maker in family matters. Our matai had to make one such decision.
Our matai’s only grandchild, a 10 month boy, has lived with the family since birth. His mother, the matai’s daughter, 24, lives in Apia with her “husband” and rarely visits her son. Both she and her husband seem unemployed. The paternal grandparents would raise the child until the couple is on their feet.
Two weeks ago, the matai’s sister and her 50+ American husband flew in from their home in Hawaii. She has been trying to have a child, but has been unsuccessful. They want to adopt the baby and raise him in Hawaii.
The matai’s wife and his children have not only raised the child but have completely bonded to him. The child was called KJ, in reference to the matai.
All parties want the child. The entire extended family is also affected by the outcome of his decision as to who would get the child. He made his decision and it is final.
Wednesday, October 31, 2007
City vs Village; Stuff vs Relationships
10/28/07
Being a city boy all my life, I developed certain snobbishness towards small town brethren. Now I find myself in a rural village of the third world country; I am not quite as snobbish, and in some ways resentful of my own pomposity. I see in Samoa people faced with the lure of the city or a foreign land without fully comprehending what is to be gained and what is to be lost.
There is no question the city is an economic engine. The city’s purpose for being is commerce. Its riches overflow into educational, ideological, technological innovations. The city produces stuff and status is measured by how much stuff you have. A premium is placed on change. What is lost is a sense of self identity with those around you. The bonds between people weaken in the process. The mystic of life and the forces which surround us seem to be lost in the struggle for stuff.
Village life is no idyllic panacea either. There are physical hardships and a certain static nature of thought. It is life at the subsistence level where relationships between people dominate in importance. These relationships are as necessary to life in the village as a salaried job is to a city dweller. Each day new levels of relationships subtly reveal themselves to me. Most interactions are unspoken. If you don’t look carefully, you could miss them.
I marvel at this country of Samoa which chose to maintain its independent place in the world and its least favored nation status over being a protectorate and opening its borders to foreign capitol. I see its people struggle between the world of stuff and that of relationships. I hope stuff doesn’t swallow them.
Being a city boy all my life, I developed certain snobbishness towards small town brethren. Now I find myself in a rural village of the third world country; I am not quite as snobbish, and in some ways resentful of my own pomposity. I see in Samoa people faced with the lure of the city or a foreign land without fully comprehending what is to be gained and what is to be lost.
There is no question the city is an economic engine. The city’s purpose for being is commerce. Its riches overflow into educational, ideological, technological innovations. The city produces stuff and status is measured by how much stuff you have. A premium is placed on change. What is lost is a sense of self identity with those around you. The bonds between people weaken in the process. The mystic of life and the forces which surround us seem to be lost in the struggle for stuff.
Village life is no idyllic panacea either. There are physical hardships and a certain static nature of thought. It is life at the subsistence level where relationships between people dominate in importance. These relationships are as necessary to life in the village as a salaried job is to a city dweller. Each day new levels of relationships subtly reveal themselves to me. Most interactions are unspoken. If you don’t look carefully, you could miss them.
I marvel at this country of Samoa which chose to maintain its independent place in the world and its least favored nation status over being a protectorate and opening its borders to foreign capitol. I see its people struggle between the world of stuff and that of relationships. I hope stuff doesn’t swallow them.
Saturday, October 27, 2007
Scabies
10/25/07
Scabies is a skin condition caused by small mites that burrow into the skin. In the early stages, there is mild itching. As the condition persists open infected sores develop and itching intensifies greatly. As the sores are scratched, the scabies spreads over the body. It is highly contagious, especially among young children who bath irregularly.
In our household, we noticed small sores on an infant when we first moved to Iva. Over the past two months, we watched as the sores continued to spread over his body. He developed a fever and his crying in the night became worse and worse. We thought it might be scabies, but were unsure about our diagnosis and more importantly how much we should inject ourselves into family affairs.
The family took the baby repeatedly to traditional healers. The family put oils, herbs, and native ointments on the sore, but the condition just got worse. Finally we said we thought the baby should go to the hospital and we would pay for the expenses. Mary went by bus with the child and grandmother to the local public hospital where the baby was said to have scabies. Four different antibiotic medicines and baths were provided. Total cost $7.00 US. The doctor does not charge for children.
The question is why did it take so long before the child was taken to a doctor and what triggered the decision to go? Our first response was quick and simple, money. But things here are not as simple as they may seem. Certainly money is an important factor, but the family has money for other things, also one has to factor the fear or distrust of the hospital and unfamiliar medicines. We now realize the most important factor was when we said that we would take the child to the hospital. Their comfort level with us and our knowledge of a Western-style hospital overcame their anxieties. In this different world we find ourselves and the role we play in it are as frightening to us as the hospital is to them.
Scabies is a skin condition caused by small mites that burrow into the skin. In the early stages, there is mild itching. As the condition persists open infected sores develop and itching intensifies greatly. As the sores are scratched, the scabies spreads over the body. It is highly contagious, especially among young children who bath irregularly.
In our household, we noticed small sores on an infant when we first moved to Iva. Over the past two months, we watched as the sores continued to spread over his body. He developed a fever and his crying in the night became worse and worse. We thought it might be scabies, but were unsure about our diagnosis and more importantly how much we should inject ourselves into family affairs.
The family took the baby repeatedly to traditional healers. The family put oils, herbs, and native ointments on the sore, but the condition just got worse. Finally we said we thought the baby should go to the hospital and we would pay for the expenses. Mary went by bus with the child and grandmother to the local public hospital where the baby was said to have scabies. Four different antibiotic medicines and baths were provided. Total cost $7.00 US. The doctor does not charge for children.
The question is why did it take so long before the child was taken to a doctor and what triggered the decision to go? Our first response was quick and simple, money. But things here are not as simple as they may seem. Certainly money is an important factor, but the family has money for other things, also one has to factor the fear or distrust of the hospital and unfamiliar medicines. We now realize the most important factor was when we said that we would take the child to the hospital. Their comfort level with us and our knowledge of a Western-style hospital overcame their anxieties. In this different world we find ourselves and the role we play in it are as frightening to us as the hospital is to them.
My First, His First Iva Haircut
10/24/07
One of the boys from our household brought over some electric clippers because he knew I wanted a hair cut. He never thought that I would ask him to do it. A first for both of us.
One of the boys from our household brought over some electric clippers because he knew I wanted a hair cut. He never thought that I would ask him to do it. A first for both of us.
Before
After
Iva, Month Two, Progress Report
10/23/07
Your Tax Dollars at Work
This past month we started applying for grants by visiting thirteen different governmental agencies, NGO’s, and stores for quotes in a one day period. My feet were bleeding at the end of the day. We met a lot of important people and people related to villagers in Iva. That means a lot in Samoa.
Here is where we stand on our major projects:
Village Computer/Telecenter
We hand delivered and presented a letter of request to the Ministry of Telecommunications detailing why Iva should be considered. The letter had numerous signatures of village officials to indicate the serious of the village in pursuing a center.
The project has taken on enormous importance in the village. It is as if the entire future of the village depends on getting this communications center. Hopefully, we get some feedback some.
Sewing Machines
The Women’s Committee decided on fewer but better quality sewing machines. We got their input on filling out the proposal form which required considerable thought about what would be done after we got the machines. This proposal is being hand delivered to the New Zealand High Commission this coming week.
Village Youth
Much to our amazement, the village mayor said he was calling a meeting of all the village youth the first week of November. We can decide on the day and what to do. We have no idea what we are doing.
Using Local High School Computer Lab
Negotiations with the school principle on having us teach some computer for teachers and students, and to also provide lessons to villagers is awaiting his meeting with the School Committee (Board of Ed). National testing is going on now, which further delays us getting an answer. We think he will agree because it is a way for the school to make some money.
Relocating/Rebuilding Village Primary School
We were asked to table this project since grants for this type of project seem to be on hold. No Money.
Your Tax Dollars at Work
This past month we started applying for grants by visiting thirteen different governmental agencies, NGO’s, and stores for quotes in a one day period. My feet were bleeding at the end of the day. We met a lot of important people and people related to villagers in Iva. That means a lot in Samoa.
Here is where we stand on our major projects:
Village Computer/Telecenter
We hand delivered and presented a letter of request to the Ministry of Telecommunications detailing why Iva should be considered. The letter had numerous signatures of village officials to indicate the serious of the village in pursuing a center.
The project has taken on enormous importance in the village. It is as if the entire future of the village depends on getting this communications center. Hopefully, we get some feedback some.
Sewing Machines
The Women’s Committee decided on fewer but better quality sewing machines. We got their input on filling out the proposal form which required considerable thought about what would be done after we got the machines. This proposal is being hand delivered to the New Zealand High Commission this coming week.
Village Youth
Much to our amazement, the village mayor said he was calling a meeting of all the village youth the first week of November. We can decide on the day and what to do. We have no idea what we are doing.
Using Local High School Computer Lab
Negotiations with the school principle on having us teach some computer for teachers and students, and to also provide lessons to villagers is awaiting his meeting with the School Committee (Board of Ed). National testing is going on now, which further delays us getting an answer. We think he will agree because it is a way for the school to make some money.
Relocating/Rebuilding Village Primary School
We were asked to table this project since grants for this type of project seem to be on hold. No Money.
Tuesday, October 23, 2007
Churches of Iva: Roman Catholic
10/21/07
About 25% of Samoans are Roman Catholics who were among the first group of missionaries to convert Samoans to Christianity. The host family with whom we are with are devout Catholics. The church is across the road from us.
Every day starts with the ringing of the bell (gas cylinder hit with a hammer) at 5:00 am for Rosary. Like other churches there are two services on Sunday; one in the morning and one at 4:00 pm. There may be other services during the week as well. This combined with numerous other events during the week occupy a full schedule for parishioners.
Mass is festooned with fragrant leis which are ceremonially brought forward and placed around the necks of the priest, other church leaders, guests, symbolic icons, alter, pulpit, etc. A traveling priest conducts Mass and is shared by several other churches on the island. When an ordained priest is unavailable, services are conducted by local “pastors’.
Confession is held twice a year, before Christmas and Easter. It is done as a group. Communion and baptisms are done whenever a priest conducts Mass.
Catholics seem to be the most liberal of the churches. They do allow drinking of beer and Ava after the service. They don’t proselytize and don’t read who gave what size offering.
Trying to understand any faith as an outsider is a superficial and often wrong exercise. But like Catholic churches in other parts of the world, the faith somehow blends local customs into the religion.
An interesting footnote is that our host father’s father played piano in a Protestant church when Catholics did not permit musical instruments. He tried to dissuade his son from following in his footsteps which he of course ignored. He now does not want his son to play, but I hear the sounds of a guitar late at night.
About 25% of Samoans are Roman Catholics who were among the first group of missionaries to convert Samoans to Christianity. The host family with whom we are with are devout Catholics. The church is across the road from us.
Every day starts with the ringing of the bell (gas cylinder hit with a hammer) at 5:00 am for Rosary. Like other churches there are two services on Sunday; one in the morning and one at 4:00 pm. There may be other services during the week as well. This combined with numerous other events during the week occupy a full schedule for parishioners.
Mass is festooned with fragrant leis which are ceremonially brought forward and placed around the necks of the priest, other church leaders, guests, symbolic icons, alter, pulpit, etc. A traveling priest conducts Mass and is shared by several other churches on the island. When an ordained priest is unavailable, services are conducted by local “pastors’.
Confession is held twice a year, before Christmas and Easter. It is done as a group. Communion and baptisms are done whenever a priest conducts Mass.
Catholics seem to be the most liberal of the churches. They do allow drinking of beer and Ava after the service. They don’t proselytize and don’t read who gave what size offering.
Trying to understand any faith as an outsider is a superficial and often wrong exercise. But like Catholic churches in other parts of the world, the faith somehow blends local customs into the religion.
An interesting footnote is that our host father’s father played piano in a Protestant church when Catholics did not permit musical instruments. He tried to dissuade his son from following in his footsteps which he of course ignored. He now does not want his son to play, but I hear the sounds of a guitar late at night.
Catholic Church in Iva
Interior
The Cow’s Tongue
10/22/07
Some people were fined a cow today for drunkenness and not showing up to work on the road. In Samoan fashion, a cow was butchered for the fine and divided among the villagers. No one wanted the head which was being carted away to the sea to be gleaned by the crabs so as to make a nice cow head ornament.
I asked about the tongue. It is the best part of the cow. I was looked at with disgust. I said you eat pig’s tongue; why not cow’s?
We retrieved the cows head from the sea and proceeded to crudely cut out the tongue. Bringing it back to cook, I let hang near my mouth scaring most of the village kids, some running away in tears.
I tried to describe that you cook it just like Samoan chicken, by stewing it for a long time. Well, I got a pot and cooked it over the wood fire. When done, I offered samples. Those who didn’t know what it was really liked it; those who did carefully chewed their morsel. The remaining tongue was fried in grease along with the liver which fit more into the Samoan cuisine of fat and lard.
It was fun to have our Samoan family try a food they had never had before. Maybe they might have a better understanding of what it means to eat Moray eel and seaweed.
Sorry, no pictures for you tongue lovers to savor.
Some people were fined a cow today for drunkenness and not showing up to work on the road. In Samoan fashion, a cow was butchered for the fine and divided among the villagers. No one wanted the head which was being carted away to the sea to be gleaned by the crabs so as to make a nice cow head ornament.
I asked about the tongue. It is the best part of the cow. I was looked at with disgust. I said you eat pig’s tongue; why not cow’s?
We retrieved the cows head from the sea and proceeded to crudely cut out the tongue. Bringing it back to cook, I let hang near my mouth scaring most of the village kids, some running away in tears.
I tried to describe that you cook it just like Samoan chicken, by stewing it for a long time. Well, I got a pot and cooked it over the wood fire. When done, I offered samples. Those who didn’t know what it was really liked it; those who did carefully chewed their morsel. The remaining tongue was fried in grease along with the liver which fit more into the Samoan cuisine of fat and lard.
It was fun to have our Samoan family try a food they had never had before. Maybe they might have a better understanding of what it means to eat Moray eel and seaweed.
Sorry, no pictures for you tongue lovers to savor.
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